BY WAY OF THE BOWERY

Here’s a stalwart dish to beef up your repertoire. David Chang‘s version of ginger scallion noodles pays homage to the $4.95 plate you’ll find at Great New York Noodletown on the Bowery in Chinatown. The sauce itself is stupidly simple — heaps of scallions and ginger with a few seasonings — but that’s the beauty of it. Mr. Alpenglow makes a big batch and stores each element separately in the fridge so it’s all ready for multiple weeknight meals or a big dinner party. Feel free to mix and match: roasted cauliflower, burnt celery, pickled turnips, pickled napa cabbage, pickled fennel, and tender bamboo shoots would all be at home in this welcoming bowl.

gingerscallionsoba

GINGER SCALLION BUCKWHEAT NOODLES 
pickled shiitake mushrooms and cucumbers, burnt carrots, nori

(based on a recipe by David Chang, Momofuku Noodle Bar)

for 4 servings of ginger scallion noodles:
2-3 bundles of thin buckwheat noodles
2 1/2 cups of thinly sliced scallions (greens & whites)
1/2 cup of finely minced peeled fresh ginger
1/4 cup of grapeseed or other neutral oil
4 tsp. light soy sauce
3 tsp. sherry vinegar
2 tsp. sesame oil
1 tsp. kosher salt or more to taste

Cook the buckwheat noodles (about 3 minutes in boiling water) and drain well. Mix all the other ingredients in a large bowl. Add the noodles and toss to coat. Place one serving of noodles in each bowl. Add the topping in separate piles. Slide the nori into one side of the bowl. Serve immediately.

for the toppings:
2 packed cups of fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup each of sugar, light soy sauce, and sherry vinegar
8 small kirby cucumbers, thinly sliced
3 tbsp. each of sugar and kosher salt
4 large carrots, peeled, quartered lengthwise, then diced
2 tsp. of neutral oil
8 rectangles of nori (dried roasted seaweed)

Simmer the mushrooms with the sugar, soy, and vinegar until all the liquid is absorbed and set aside. In another bowl toss the cucumbers with the sugar and salt. Let it sit for 15 minutes, rinse with water, and drain well. Next toss the carrots in oil and saute on medium high flame until they are almost tender, then set them under the broiler until they are nicely burnt.

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