Corn-on-the-cob. In public we’re obliged to nibble at it, row by tedious row, taking care to wipe our faces clean and hide our kernel-studded grins. In private, the veneer of civilization disappears. We tear greedily into these things as if they were about to vanish forever. Our faces smothered, eyes bloodshot, gasping for air. Behind every man, woman, and child — corn carcasses piled high.


mayo, cotjia, chili powder, lime

for 4 servings:
4 white corn on the cob, husked
1/3 cup mayo
1/3 cup Mexican crema or sour cream
Cotija cheese (or ricotta salata), crumbled
chili powder or cayenne
lime wedges

Drizzle the corn with olive oil and grill or broil, turning the corn to cook it all over. When it is nicely charred, set the corn on a tray. Slather the mayo + crema mixture all over the corn. Roll the corn in the Cotjia cheese, sprinkle with chili powder, and serve immediately with lime wedges.



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