Enjoying (“consuming” is the default word here) raw steak and eggs raises a taboo, as fear spurs avoidance. Too bad, because with good ingredients and common sense, this classic dish is revelatory. I didn’t know I was a fan of steak tartare until I tasted the version served at Hinoki and the Bird in Los Angeles, where I was tempted to place a second order in the same sitting. The version below is from the excellent cookbook, A Boat, A Whale and A Walrus by Renee Erickson of Seattle.
STEAK TARTARE with RYE TOASTS
recipe from A Boat, A Whale and A Walrus:
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons finely chopped cornichons
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, plus more for finishing
12 ounces New York steak, trimmed of fat and finely chopped
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
3 organic eggs
finishing oil for drizzling
2 dozen rye toasts, drizzled with oil and toasted in the oven
In a medium bowl, mix together the olive oil, capers, shallot, cornichons, lemon zest and juice, and salt (crumbled with your fingers). Add the steak, mixing and mashing until very well blended. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or lemon juice if necessary, then gently stir in the chives. To serve, form the meat into three football-shaped mounds (called quenelles) on one or more platers. Using the pointy end of the egg, make an indentation in the top of each mound. Crack the eggs one at a time, discarding the white and carefully setting each yolk into the center of one mound. Garish the yolks with sea salt and drizzle the meat with olive oil. Serve immediately with the rye toasts.